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2012:雪域高原 —— 骑游三晋(3)北岳恒山

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发表于 2021-1-20 09:03:59 | 显示全部楼层 |阅读模式
[i=s] 本帖最后由 不老人生 于 2021-1-20 09:10 编辑 [/i]
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[color=rgb(51,51,51)][backcolor=rgb(255,255,255)][font=PingFangSC-Regular][size=16px][font=PingFangSC-light][b]D3 / Σ D150:8月2日,晴,游览恒山。[/b][/font]
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[color=rgb(51,51,51)][backcolor=rgb(255,255,255)][font=PingFangSC-Regular][size=16px][font=PingFangSC-light]       与一般景点不一样的是,恒山从天台起才算上是上山,山脚下到天台有5公里的山路,没有公共汽车,打听如坐出租车到恒山天台要50元,决定骑车上山。[/font]2 q6 V9 v: ?& [: u  W  E" |
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[font=PingFangSC-light]恒山雄姿[/font]5 v: N& d. [+ u8 ^5 Q
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[font=PingFangSC-light]恒山悬空寺,只在远处拍摄,没有进寺[/font]
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4 ?% m' n" Q' A* f% ^+ {[color=rgb(51,51,51)][backcolor=rgb(255,255,255)][font=PingFangSC-Regular][size=16px][/size][/font][/backcolor][/color][/align][align=left][color=rgb(51,51,51)][backcolor=rgb(255,255,255)][font=PingFangSC-Regular][size=16px][font=PingFangSC-light]       悬空寺位于北岳恒山脚下、浑源县城南5公里处的金龙峡内西岩峭壁上。寺创建于北魏后期(约为公元471~523年),现存建筑分明清两代修建后的遗物。悬空寺靠西面东,俨若精巧、别致、玲珑剔透的玉雕悬于一幅巨大的屏风上。[/font]* R: ?# _; W7 [
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% K/ g0 k; s+ `4 c[color=rgb(51,51,51)][backcolor=rgb(255,255,255)][font=PingFangSC-Regular][size=16px][font=PingFangSC-light]       寺内共有殿宇楼阁40间。南北,有三檐歇山顶危楼耸起,对峙而立,由低向高三层叠起,离地百余尺,附于绝壁上,三面环廊国抱、六座殿阁,相互交叉,飞架栈道相连,高低错落,木制楼梯沟通,迂回曲折,构思布局妙不可言、整个寺面似虚而实,似危而安,实中生巧,危里见俏,一种在国内其它寺庙中体会不到的奇险感紧紧地抓住游人的好奇心理。[/font]- E( W9 C. s1 |6 c( n
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[/align][align=center][color=rgb(51,51,51)][backcolor=rgb(255,255,255)][font=PingFangSC-Regular][size=16px]https://ss2.meipian.me/users/5526004/ddd0bdc0-59f0-11eb-9fa4-1dff76db26ff.jpg?meipian-watermark/bucket/ivwen/key/dXNlcnMvNTUyNjAwNC9kZGQwYmRjMC01OWYwLTExZWItOWZhNC0xZGZmNzZkYjI2ZmYuanBn/nickname/NTAwMzE15LiN6ICB5Lq655Sf/userid/NTUyNjAwNA==/sign/0a14774f3b2b0b47e1ca6ea5c3f2135a%7cimageView2/2/w/750/h/1400/interlace/0/q/80[/align][align=left]
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( k; x* A3 T0 I: q7 A6 x[color=rgb(51,51,51)][backcolor=rgb(255,255,255)][font=PingFangSC-Regular][size=16px][font=PingFangSC-light]       悬空寺内塑像颇多,有铜铸、铁铸、泥塑、石雕像共78尊。三圣殿内的泥塑,具有唐、明两代风韵,释迎、韦驮、天女、阿难形体丰满,神采动人,仙女婀娜、韦驮英武、阿难虔诚,各具风采。三教殿内,释迦牟尼、老子、孔子三教台流,共居一室,耐人寻味、始祖同堂,堪称中国宗教史上的一段佳话。悬空寺内,有朝殿、会仙府、碧霞宫、纯阳宫、楼台亭、寝宫、梳妆楼、御碑亭等。[/font]
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[/align][align=center][color=rgb(51,51,51)][backcolor=rgb(255,255,255)][font=PingFangSC-Regular][size=16px]https://ss2.meipian.me/users/5526004/ddd32ec0-59f0-11eb-9fa4-1dff76db26ff.jpg?meipian-watermark/bucket/ivwen/key/dXNlcnMvNTUyNjAwNC9kZGQzMmVjMC01OWYwLTExZWItOWZhNC0xZGZmNzZkYjI2ZmYuanBn/nickname/NTAwMzE15LiN6ICB5Lq655Sf/userid/NTUyNjAwNA==/sign/0a14774f3b2b0b47e1ca6ea5c3f2135a%7cimageView2/2/w/750/h/1400/interlace/0/q/80[/align][align=center][font=PingFangSC-light]山水恒山[/font]
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[font=PingFangSC-light]一对跨国夫妻,男韩女中[/font]* {* r* I' {! K8 F
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[font=PingFangSC-light]四岳中最便宜的门票[/font]- V! [% C1 n: S7 ~7 y# }
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& n  H" |9 ?2 z[font=PingFangSC-light]恒山山门[/font]
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# D  C  I1 ^9 h[font=PingFangSC-light]这是恒山上山路的起点[/font]2 G% E' t* e$ h0 p( N
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[font=PingFangSC-light]路陡坡大,推车上山[/font]. ^, O* U9 H! [% H, K0 Z, o
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& C+ |* m$ o2 F, V; j  |[font=PingFangSC-light]山脚下正在兴建的寺庙[/font]
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[font=PingFangSC-light]山间梯田[/font]4 c9 \8 C1 N. S
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" j2 ]$ m4 p; V  l5 X- b[font=PingFangSC-light]恒山也有迎客松[/font]
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[font=PingFangSC-light]远眺山上寺庙[/font]0 c8 |1 O4 u" Z# c7 s1 w* v  @
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[font=PingFangSC-light]上下山索道,我是上山步行,下山坐车[/font]
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[font=PingFangSC-light]上山的路上[/font]. p1 P5 c+ a. ^, d( @0 p$ L
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" m( D; v/ Y: n1 J+ Z4 X0 y/ g[font=PingFangSC-light]恒山天台:到这里才算进山,5公里的山路用了2.5小时[/font]
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[font=PingFangSC-light]恒山是道教圣地,当然少不了倒骑毛驴的张果老[/font]
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[color=rgb(51,51,51)][backcolor=rgb(255,255,255)][font=PingFangSC-Regular][size=16px][/size][/font][/backcolor][/color][/align][align=left][color=rgb(51,51,51)][backcolor=rgb(255,255,255)][font=PingFangSC-Regular][size=16px][font=PingFangSC-light]       西汉初年,恒山就建有寺庙。现在飞石窟内的主庙,是始建于北魏,又经过唐、金、元代重修的古建筑。明、清时恒山已经寺庙群居,规模很大,人们称之为“三寺四祠九亭阁,七宫八洞十二庙”。可惜后来遭到破坏,所剩不多。恒山以自取景色美而著称,历来有恒山18景之说。明代旅行家徐霞客游恒山后,把在恒山的见闻录入《徐霞客游记》中。[/font]
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, p) P7 h# {# k- ~: b# p[color=rgb(51,51,51)][backcolor=rgb(255,255,255)][font=PingFangSC-Regular][size=16px][font=PingFangSC-light]       古人由此赞叹恒山"危峰过雁来秋色,万里黄沙散夕阳" 边关要塞,古城峰烟。恒山因其险峻的自然山势和地理位置的特点,成为兵家必争之地。[/font]/ H7 N+ K  W7 F$ {
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[color=rgb(51,51,51)][backcolor=rgb(255,255,255)][font=PingFangSC-Regular][size=16px][font=PingFangSC-light]       在春秋时,代国靠恒山而存天下;战国时,燕、赵凭恒山而立天下;两汉时,匈奴利用恒山争天下;东晋时,慕容氏踞恒山威天下;北魏时,拓跋氏依恒山而分天下;宋仗恒山守天下;金恃恒山而鞭天下;元灭天下,清统天下,也凭借的是以恒山为主体的长城沿线天险。许多帝王、名将都在此打过仗,这是恒山的五岳中最可引以为自豪的。并且将古代关隘、城堡、烽火台等众多古代战场遗迹保存了下来。[/font]' T8 ?5 {5 Y3 P7 K' r
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[/align][align=center][color=rgb(51,51,51)][backcolor=rgb(255,255,255)][font=PingFangSC-Regular][size=16px]https://ss2.meipian.me/users/5526004/dde99cf0-59f0-11eb-9fa4-1dff76db26ff.jpg?meipian-watermark/bucket/ivwen/key/dXNlcnMvNTUyNjAwNC9kZGU5OWNmMC01OWYwLTExZWItOWZhNC0xZGZmNzZkYjI2ZmYuanBn/nickname/NTAwMzE15LiN6ICB5Lq655Sf/userid/NTUyNjAwNA==/sign/0a14774f3b2b0b47e1ca6ea5c3f2135a%7cimageView2/2/w/750/h/1400/interlace/0/q/80[/align][align=center][font=PingFangSC-light]真武庙[/font]
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[font=PingFangSC-light]晨钟[/font]! {* A* i; w0 u) {
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[color=rgb(51,51,51)][backcolor=rgb(255,255,255)][font=PingFangSC-Regular][size=16px][/size][/font][/backcolor][/color][/align][align=left][color=rgb(51,51,51)][backcolor=rgb(255,255,255)][font=PingFangSC-Regular][size=16px][font=PingFangSC-light]        气势壮观,风景如画。整个恒山山脉似自西南向东北奔腾而来。一座座海拔达2000米以上的山如比肩而立,重重叠叠,气势异常博大雄浑。因此北宋画家郭熙说:“泰山如坐,华山如站,嵩山如卧,常(恒)山如行。”其风景特色可概括为四点:群峰奔突,气势磅礴,这是恒山自然景观的宏观特征。唐代诗人贾岛诗云“岩峦叠万重,鬼恒浩难测”,点出了恒山的地貌特征。[/font]
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[font=PingFangSC-light]隐寺[/font]
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8 c& @, M5 h/ d: T, O. W  X[/align][font=PingFangSC-light][align=center]悬崖上各个朝代的巨字[/align][/font]9 R' F$ V2 n3 ^: u( l2 Z
[/size][/font][/backcolor][/color][color=rgb(51,51,51)][backcolor=rgb(255,255,255)][font=PingFangSC-Regular][size=16px][font=PingFangSC-light]       登上恒山,苍松翠柏、庙观楼阁、奇花异草、怪石幽洞构成了著名的恒山十八景。十八胜景,各有千秋,犹如十八幅美丽画卷,展现在游客面前磁峡烟雨、云阁虹桥、云路春晓、虎口悬松、果老仙迹、断崖啼鸟、夕阳晚照、龙泉甘苦、幽室飞窟、石洞流云、茅窟烟火、金鸡报晓、玉羊游云,紫峪云花、脂图文锦、仙府醉月、弈台弄琴、岳顶松风。再加上世界一绝的天下奇观悬空寺,整个恒山景如诗如画,令游客如置身于世外桃源,流连驻足。[/font]9 Y) n8 h8 N6 Z
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[align=center][color=rgb(51,51,51)][backcolor=rgb(255,255,255)][font=PingFangSC-Regular][size=16px]https://ss2.meipian.me/users/5526004/ddfa17b0-59f0-11eb-9fa4-1dff76db26ff.jpg?meipian-watermark/bucket/ivwen/key/dXNlcnMvNTUyNjAwNC9kZGZhMTdiMC01OWYwLTExZWItOWZhNC0xZGZmNzZkYjI2ZmYuanBn/nickname/NTAwMzE15LiN6ICB5Lq655Sf/userid/NTUyNjAwNA==/sign/0a14774f3b2b0b47e1ca6ea5c3f2135a%7cimageView2/2/w/750/h/1400/interlace/0/q/80[/align][align=center][font=PingFangSC-light]琴基台是恒山游客可登的最高处[/font]! u+ W- Z( R- k
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[font=PingFangSC-light]走与歇[/font]
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[font=PingFangSC-light]上琴基台要前拉后推,小孩虽害怕,在家人的帮助还是上去了[/font]
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[color=rgb(51,51,51)][backcolor=rgb(255,255,255)][font=PingFangSC-Regular][size=16px][/size][/font][/backcolor][/color][/align][align=left][color=rgb(51,51,51)][backcolor=rgb(255,255,255)][font=PingFangSC-Regular][size=16px][font=PingFangSC-light]        令人非常惋惜的是四株唐代古松因对面开矿断了水脉,在三年前枯死,检票员叹到,几千年的文物在我们这一代断送了。[/font]" t" b7 ^- @; S1 r4 U
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[/align][align=center][color=rgb(51,51,51)][backcolor=rgb(255,255,255)][font=PingFangSC-Regular][size=16px]https://ss2.meipian.me/users/5526004/ddfdc130-59f0-11eb-9fa4-1dff76db26ff.jpg?meipian-watermark/bucket/ivwen/key/dXNlcnMvNTUyNjAwNC9kZGZkYzEzMC01OWYwLTExZWItOWZhNC0xZGZmNzZkYjI2ZmYuanBn/nickname/NTAwMzE15LiN6ICB5Lq655Sf/userid/NTUyNjAwNA==/sign/0a14774f3b2b0b47e1ca6ea5c3f2135a%7cimageView2/2/w/750/h/1400/interlace/0/q/80[/align][align=center][font=PingFangSC-light]因为对面山上采矿,断了水脉,这棵唐代的松枯死了[/font]* b/ P1 q- D4 J' M/ W3 d
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3 ^5 |7 e0 S5 H, a) L[color=rgb(51,51,51)][backcolor=rgb(255,255,255)][font=PingFangSC-Regular][size=16px][/size][/font][/backcolor][/color][/align][align=left][color=rgb(51,51,51)][backcolor=rgb(255,255,255)][font=PingFangSC-Regular][size=16px][font=PingFangSC-light]       总的认为,恒山不如泰山雄伟,华山险峻,景区建设也显粗糙,但庙宇特多,上山门票减半只有28元,上下山索道25元,这比华山、嵩山、泰山要低许多。恒山的寺庙建在靠近山顶处,路陡,其中上恒宗寺竟有103级台阶,我一直到最高一个景点琴基台。[/font]
) d) _  e0 H, f% l* d[/size][/font][/backcolor][/color]
9 T9 Y: _; C% y' ~% c" h) f[/align][align=center][color=rgb(51,51,51)][backcolor=rgb(255,255,255)][font=PingFangSC-Regular][size=16px]https://ss2.meipian.me/users/5526004/ddc76ef0-59f0-11eb-9fa4-1dff76db26ff.jpg?meipian-watermark/bucket/ivwen/key/dXNlcnMvNTUyNjAwNC9kZGM3NmVmMC01OWYwLTExZWItOWZhNC0xZGZmNzZkYjI2ZmYuanBn/nickname/NTAwMzE15LiN6ICB5Lq655Sf/userid/NTUyNjAwNA==/sign/0a14774f3b2b0b47e1ca6ea5c3f2135a%7cimageView2/2/w/750/h/1400/interlace/0/q/80[/align][align=center][font=PingFangSC-light]在恒山惟一的自拍 [/font]
2 i+ a. ~6 M( j8 F[/size][/font][/backcolor][/color]. b0 q6 A. \. O% [
[color=rgb(51,51,51)][backcolor=rgb(255,255,255)][font=PingFangSC-Regular][size=16px][/size][/font][/backcolor][/color][/align][align=left][color=rgb(51,51,51)][backcolor=rgb(255,255,255)][font=PingFangSC-Regular][size=16px][font=PingFangSC-light]       我对道教不甚了解,只是走马观花,用了不到5个小时便返回。回旅店后清洗小弟,除了三天前发现上坡爬齿,又看到后盘有五道裂缝,其中一条呈()形,变速轮磨损也很严重,但愿在后面的两千公里能挺过来。[/font]
5 h% X  N" z. f) }# k[/size][/font][/backcolor][/color]) f* m" r8 S9 W( }
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